Hey yall, LunaLight here again for a moment with random tips to alter an ill-fitting binder. Honestly this can be applied to most clothing honestly... but anyway. I recently got my first binder and had to alter it, and I figured I'd leave some advice in case you do have one but it's not a good size/fit, and your parents won't get another/exchange it/you got it without them knowing like through a program or friend.
However, if you have access to sewing materials and some breathable, stretchy fabric, but do not have a binder, I will say that there are patterns available online to make one yourself too. If you can, try seeing if you can make one in a home ec class if it's not an option otherwise. You can always tell your teacher you are trying to make a tank top and already have a pattern.
So! If you have a binder or even some fabric or an old shirt you want to turn into one, there's obviously safety considerations. Don't make it too tight, and its best if you have one that is adjustable with hooks and clasps. But:
If the straps are too long, it doesn't bind even on the tightest setting, etc, try altering it. You will need fairly strong thread (normal sewing machine thread is fine), a needle or machine, pins and/or chalk/something to mark the fabric with that you can remove or wash out, safety pins, and obviously the binder. To start, put it on and mark out where you want to adjust and make smaller. If the straps are too long, it will be the top of the straps. If the main piece is too large, you'll want to make it smaller on the side(s), under your arm (if it is adjustable on one side, alter the other side. If it's adjustable on the front, back, or not adjustable, then do it on both sides). To figure out where you want to adjust it, just pinch the fabric until it feels snug enough, and mark out two lines where you were pinching, either with pins, chalk, a washable marker, or whatever else you are using. That is where you will sew. But before you do, take off the binder and grab some safety pins. This step isn't absolutely vital, but it will make adjusting it a lot easier to see what you are doing. You want to fold it so that the two lines you made match up, and pin the fabric that way using maybe 2-3 safety pins per side, or one each for the straps. Now that it's pinned and you can temporarily see what it is like if you alter it, try it on. This is so you can test out that your lines are in the right place and that it will fit like you want it too. If everything feels good, you can take it off again and try sewing. If it's too snug or too loose in some places, adjust it or try again. To sew the two lines together, there's a few stitches you can try, and this partially depends on what you are using. Personally, I've done hand sewing as well as machine, and either will work but you'll likely use a different kind of stitch. If you've never sewn before, that's okay! Both hand sewing and machine sewing are fairly forgivable, and you can always cut the thread if the stitches turn out poorly and try again. I do recommend trying out the stitch on a scrap fabric or washcloth if you are unfamiliar. If you need any more tips than what I am giving here, you can always look up the machine/stitch you are using in order to troubleshoot any issues or explain what I'm talking about in a simpler way. If you are a total beginner, I recommend hand sewing. It takes a little longer but there's a lot less that can go wrong, since sewing machines can be fickle, vary based on model, and there's no way I can give you a rundown of how every machine operates. If you are using a machine though, you'll likely want to use a wide zigzag stitch. This is generally a fairly common stitch for knit/stretchy fabrics because it will stretch with the fabric instead of busting if it gets pulled. For a binder, that's essential. You'll want to make sure the excess fabric (the fabric that gets pinched) is hidden inside the binder and isn't visible on the outside. Then, flip the binder inside out. Make sure you know where your lines are and that they are lined up. You can use pins or more chalk to help you, just make sure you don't sew over any pins because they can break and hurt you, so take them out right before the fabric goes under the needle. Sew over the line once or twice. If you want, for added comfort, you can make another line to keep the excess fabric hidden and folded right against the side. Try it on, and if it's comfortable, hooray! If it's not right, take a seam ripper/scissors and undo the stitching and try again. For hand sewing, there's many different stitches you can do, and you are basically doing the same process as machine sewing. I do recommend doubling up your thread for added sturdiness. I personally used a herringbone stitch, which I will put below. It's a fairly simple stitch and looks a bit more complicated than it is, but it shouldn't be too difficult for a beginner, it's a little stretchy, and it's strong. You can use other stitches too if you find one that is easier, but the main thing is that you want a stitch that will stretch with the fabric and won't break if a little pressure is put on it. I do not recommend a backstitch but it may work. Do not use a running stitch, it will break very easily and is only meant for temporary fixes. If you need help starting and stopping your line of stitching, you can look up tips for this as well, and it's mostly just tying a knot. Stitch your lines together with your excess fabric (the part that gets pinched between the lines) on the inside of the binder. Once you are done, try it out.
If your binder is too small instead, there are ways to fix this, but it requires extra fabric. Ideally, a fabric that is breathable and stretchy, doesn't irritate your skin, is similar to the binder, doesn't fray easily (hopefully the binder fabric doesn't either), and is something you have enough of to work with. If you do not have experience or know exactly what you are doing, I do not recommend trying this solely from my rambling explanations. Making clothing bigger is always more difficult, and it is best if you can get another that's in a bigger size. This is part of why you always want to size up on clothing if you are unsure how small it will really be. I have not tried this, but I can imagine the process. I recommend reading through the above section on how to make it smaller first, since I'll reference that a bit. Similarly, figure out what is too small, be it the straps or whole. You'll adjust the same areas, side(s) and/or straps, as in the above section. Only this time, you'll have to actually cut the binder. This is another reason I don't recommend this, because any damage/mess ups with making it smaller can pretty much be undone easily, but once fabric is cut you can only sew it back and hope it won't fray, and you actually have to damage the binder to improve it. But back to the explanation, you are going to want your other fabric you are using. Take it and put it underneath the part of the binder that you cut, be it the side(s) or the strap. Adjust it to how big you need it to be, then pin it with pins/safety pins (careful not to hurt yourself if you use pins), try it on and make sure its a good length. Sew the fabric in place using one of the stitches I mentioned before, same kinda method. Cut the fabric down to shape and size so it blends in more with the binder fabric. If you know how to make hems, go for it. If you don't, it's once again not strictly necessary but will help keep the fabric from fraying (you will need to make sure you have a half-inch to an inch of excess fabric to work with when you are cutting it down in that case). You can find out how to make hems pretty easily from a teacher or online. Try it on, make sure everything fits like you want. You can also use this to make the binder longer by just attaching a strip to the bottom instead of at the sides/straps.
That's pretty much it. Toodaloo! (I will check answers and comments if y'all have any questions)
If done correctly, a herringbone stitch will look like this on one side, and two rows of dotted lines on the other side. Google/KidzTube/KidzSearch for tutorials if you need more information!!
